by Marco Marini
The latest edition of New York Fashion Week has officially started the new era of Calvin Klein‘s under the creative direction of Raf Simons. A debut long-awaited by all in the fashion system, especially after first changes wanted by the chief creative officer, lastly the decision of the co-ed format to bring women’s and men’s collections on the catwalk, 64 outfits through which the designer’s aesthetic vision begins to delineate itself.
Firstly they are the US brand cult: linear silhouettes, the combination between casual and functionality, the attention to the heterogeneity of apparels have been harmonized to the stylistic figure of Simons.
The woman takes the cue from male wardrobe joining the attention to tailoring, to the versatile and practical features of this last to a fine femininity conferred by accessories, transparencies, and prints. Suits in check or pinstripe patterns, overcoats, leather blousons and outerwear with a comfy fit cohabit with tapered sheath dresses, trench coats dubbed in plastic layer, ensemble embellished by floral embroideries, feathers-decor, crystals on minimalist sandals and metallic shades for the shoulder bags. A well-assorted mix that is extended also to man: the outfits marked by flowers, graphic elements, and bare effect are in fact alternated or overlapped to the classics of formalwear, to duvets, to clothes inspired to the overalls.
As Simons declared the intention was to celebrate the many ranges of those ‘métissage’ that is an integral part of Calvin Klein’s heritage and moreover of the American society: the goal was achieved and rightly emphasized during the long final applause in the end for the Belgian designer.